In Continuation to my posts (in Feb 2010) on traditional Indian jewelry, I have compiled a list of things to know about Indian jewelry styles so that you know exactly what to expect when you shop for them. Updated in July 2011 with more information.
Meenakari 
Western term - Enameling with Stones
Style Inspiration - Mughals. Later was greatly patronized by the Rajputs of Rajasthan from the 16th century
Process - Meenakari is essentially enameling or decorating the metallic surface of jewelry with colors. The color portions are engraved (kudhai) for shallow depressions and the enamel dust of the required color ( ground, mixed with water) is then poured into those engravings and heated at high temperature. The colors are filled in accordance to their resistance to heat - white to red. When cooled, its polished with agate for luster. The color accuracy can be guaranteed only when 22- 24K gold is used
Centres - Jaipur, Delhi, Banaras and Udaipur.
Products - Jewelry, decorative objects like - trays, bowls, showpieces, purses, etc
Kundan
Western term - Gem setting on gold
Style Inspiration -patronized by the Rajputs of Rajasthan and other royal houses of India
Identity & Process -
Kundan is a method of gem setting, consisting of inserting a gold foil between the stones and its mount without soldering or applying heat. Stones are set this way in a prong less method. Often Kundan jewelry is accompanied by meenakari.
Alternate Process - The central part of this jewelry is made of lac, the hollow jewelry pieces that are joined to make the Kundan jewellery are bored with holes where precious stones and gems are inserted. The visible lac is covered with highly refined gold. The stones are then set or rather pushed into the cool but pliant gold. When the gold finally hardens, the stones get embedded in it.
Products - Jewelry
Jadau, Jadtar, Jadaii
Western Name - Gem set Jewelry
Style Inspiration - Mughals. Later was greatly patronized by the Rajputs of Rajasthan from the 16th century
Identity - Traditional Jadau jewellery has stones encrusted on one side and colorful and intricate meenakari on the reverse.
Process - Combination of both Meenakari & kundan. One side of the jewelry is engraved, enameled and the other is embedded with uncut stones (diamonds) - Polki and is further decorated with beads
Products - Jewelry
Pachchikam
Western term - Gem setting on silver
Origin - Gujarat & kutch
Process - Very similar to kundan and in this case, the stone is set in silver and the process of fixing involves pressing the edges of the stone or glass into the silver and then the grooves are filed, giving it a crude appearance. Uncut precious stones and glass are the hallmark of Pachchikam jewelry.
Vadaseri or Kemp Jewelry
Western term - Temple Jewelry
Origin - The jewelry used to adorn the idols was later worn by temple dancers and slowly, the designs became a part of the Indian woman's bridal jewelry trousseau. Region - South India
Identity -Combination of Red & green color glass stones or rubies/emeralds with pearls (as droplets or strands) set in gold or silver dipped in goldis from the town of Vadaseri and hence is named so.
Temple jewelry on the other had refers to pure gold pieces crafted by sculptures who do metal sculptures for temples. Images of gods and goddesses are very common
Thewa
Western term - Gold Setting on glass
Style Inspiration - Mughals; Practiced in Chittor in Rajasthan for 400 years - now popularised by Roopa Vohra
Identity : Looks like a Tanjore painting with Rajasthani figures
Process - fusing an intricately worked thin sheet of gold in 23-carat gold alone(which comprises the design) into handmade, molten, colored glass suggesting gem stones. When set, the plaque can be mounted on a frame, to create jewelry or boxes, vases and goblets.
Tarkashi
Western Name -
Filigree
Style Inspiration - Greek
Process - Pure silver is made into very fine wires by passing it through a wire drawing machine or by hammering by hand After this, the two thinnest wires are heated and wound around a rotating wheel machine to make it as a single wire. This wire is then bent in different ways to give it many different forms and shapes.
Identity - Beaten or wire wrapped look
Products - Jewelry, decorative objects like - trays, bowls, showpieces, purses, etc
Cheers
